Exploring Sri Lankan Cuisine Through 6 Iconic Dishes

On her recent travels through Sri Lanka's diverse provinces, Veidehi Gite samples several unusual regional dishes that offer unique perspective into the country’s evolving cuisine.

Sri Lanka, once Ceylon, has simmered in a rich stew of culinary influences since the Portuguese landed there in 1505. Nestled in Southeast Asia, the island absorbed flavours from its colonial rulers — the Portuguese, Dutch, and British. The most potent zing, however, came from its nearest neighbour, the state of Tamil Nadu in India. Despite this historical smorgasbord, Sri Lankan cuisine maintains a distinctive identity — traditional dishes slow-cooked over fire in earthen pots that reflect the island’s commitment to fresh, local ingredients. Earthenware delicately amplifies the natural flavours of these ingredients, many of which are hyper-local and seasonal and come straight from backyard gardens or burgeoning organic farms.

On my recent travels through Sri Lanka's diverse provinces, I sampled several unusual regional dishes that offer unique perspective into the country’s evolving cuisine.

Hoppers with Kiri Hodi, Colombo

Rice flour hoppers — thin, bowl-shaped egg hoppers, and lacy stacks of string hoppers (appam and idiyappam to their Tamil cousins) are ubiquitous in Sri Lanka. These delicate crepes come alive when paired with seafood curry, a fiery crunch of pol sambol (coconut relish), or the nuanced heat of rich crab roe paste. It was in Colombo, at the Ports of Call restaurant at the Taj Samudra, where I tasted another delicious pairing — hoppers with kiri hodi (coconut milk curry).

“In our traditional coconut milk curry, each ingredient plays a vital role. Plump onions release their sweetness, fiery green chillies add a playful heat, and the Pandanus leaf is a secret layer of the tropics,” says executive chef Samila Kumarasinghe. What truly steals the spotlight is the pol kiri — the first extract of coconut milk, which he describes as reminiscent of the creaminess of moonlight. "Enriched with uluhal (fenugreek seeds), cinnamon, and kaha kudu (turmeric), our kiri hodi boasts a colour that rivals the setting sun."

This curry gets its body from fenugreek, and the pandanus leaf (rampe) adds layers complex enough to make a spice rack blush. Throw in some fish or veggies, and you have a hearty meal.

Where to try it: Taj Samudra, 25 Galle Face Center Rd, Colombo 80000, Sri Lanka

Fried Tilapia with Bitter Gourd Salad, Habarana

In the heart of Habarana in Sri Lanka's Anuradhapura District, I tasted another iconic culinary pairing — crispy fried tilapia and bitter gourd salad. Ruwan and his family who run the Tree House Ambasewana Resort explained its preparation. “We marinate the fish for two hours in a mixture of rice flour, eggs, a hint of aniseed powder, a dash of chilies, powdered cloves for that exotic touch, turmeric for vibrancy, coriander for freshness, and just the slightest hint of peppery heat,” he said.

Emphasising the significance of day’s the catch, he added, "Tilapia, occasionally referred to as St. Peter’s fish, holds a prime position as a staple catch in the waters of Habarana Lake.”  

The fish is fried in coconut oil in earthenware pots over a crackling wood fire. It is a textural masterpiece — crispy on the outside and oh-so-flaky on the inside. For the bitter gourd salad, bitter gourd is deseeded, sliced into rounds, fried over a wood fire, and combined with freshly chopped onions and tomatoes. It is finished with fresh lemon, and best eaten with kalu heenati (brown rice), sautéed white potatoes, aromatic Lankan chicken curry, pol sambol, beetroot salad, and crunchy pappadams. 

Where to try it: Tree House Ambasewana Resort, Anuradhapura road 157, Laksirigama, Habarana 50150, Sri Lanka

Young Jackfruit Curry and Toddy, Kandy

In Kandy, nestled in Sri Lanka's central province, I samped young jackfruit curry (polos curry) with Kalu Heenati brown rice accompanied by the fresh nectar of tapped toddy. The jackfruit curry, reminiscent of a creamy risotto, was a labour of love, requiring almost two hours of dedicated preparation.

“The freshness of ingredients is of paramount importance,” says chef Tharaka Gunarathnawhich of Mahaweli Reach Hotel, “which is why we use whole spices, and grind them just before cooking this curry.” He heats coconut oil in an earthen pot, and the crackling sounds of mustard and fenugreek seeds fills our ears. He stirs gently, allowing the ingredients to come together. Finally, he adds in grated coconut, young jackfruit, its pre-boiled seeds, and lime juice, allowing it simmer until the curry achieves a tender, golden velvet texture.

Topped with crispy onions and fried curry leaves for a satisfying crunch, the dish is paired with rice, and a coconut milk-based white wattakka (pumpkin) curry. Meanwhile, a seasoned toddy tapper presents a glass of freshly tapped toddy with whole peppercorn and pickled shallots to complete the experience.

Where to try it: Mahaweli Reach Hotel, 35 P B A Weerakoon Mawatha, Kandy 20000, Sri Lanka

Banana Blossom Mellum and Brinjal Moju, Gal Oya

In Sri Lanka's Eastern province, Wild Glamping Gal Oya has an inviting selection of unusual tribal flavours. In their rustic, grass-thatched restaurant, I tasted banana blossom, a leafy superfood revered in the region. Chef Chandan Kumardasa shared that it was the morning’s harvest from their farm. “The flower’s centre is white, with a subtle bitterness and a texture reminiscent of bamboo shoots and palm hearts.” To temper the bitterness, he mixes the banana bloom with mellum (shredded vegetable), incorporating fresh coconut, shallots, curry leaves, garlic, green chillies, and spices. On the side was brinjal (wambat) moju, an eggplant pickle and creamy pumpkin prawns.

Where to try it: Wild Glamping Gal OyaInginiyagala Rd, Ampara, Bibile 91040, Sri Lanka

Sri Lankan Mud Crab Curry, Negombo

For travellers using Colombo as their entryway to the country, Negombo, on the south coast of Sri Lanka, often marks their exit. Blessed with coastal proximity, this Dutch-inspired city brags an impressive display of seafood offerings. Among them, the mud crab curry is truly exquisite. The dish places utmost importance on the quality and freshness of its ingredients — mud crabs are picked on the same day and the curry is traditionally cooked in earthen utensils, enhancing its loamy flavours.

At Jetwing Blue Hotel, chef Kaushalya Batagoda took me through the recipe. “We begin toasting cumin seeds and black peppercorns to release their fragrant aroma. Next, grated coconut takes centre stage, sautéed until it achieves a beautiful golden brown colour,” he says. In another pot, as he heats coconut oil, and adds mustard, fennel seeds, and some spices, he adds the coconut paste with mud crabs and allows it to simmer until tender. “We finish with coconut milk and tamarind pulp, an infusion of moringa leaves and lemon juice." The mud crab curry receives a garnishing of moringa leaves and is served hot with egg kothu—made from leftover parotta, sautéed vegetables, and scrambled eggs.

Where to try it: Jetwing Blue Hotel 6RRR+MPF, Porutota Rd, Negombo 11500, Sri Lanka

Sri Lankans, like most of us on the subcontinent, have a serious sweet tooth. Every meal ends with a comforting dessert. Buffalo curd with palm treacle is a favourite choice, but there is another gem called watalappan — a rich, creamy baked coconut custard infused with fragrant cardamom, and nutmeg, and sweetened with kitul jaggery. Brought to Sri Lanka by the Malays during the 18th century, under Dutch rule, watalappan has secured its spot as a beloved dessert on the island. Often garnished with nuts for added texture, the sweet holds a special place in the Muslim community of Sri Lanka, especially during Ramadan and Eid.

Veidehi Gite is an India based journalist focusing her writing on travel, lifestyle, cuisine, art, and culture. Follow her work.

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